Tussar silk has a certain honesty to it.

A grain you can feel. A muted lustre that catches the light without demanding attention. A surface that is rarely perfectly uniform.

It is this character that makes Tussar one of India's most distinctive silks.

What is Tussar silk?

Tussar silk, also spelled Tasar and known regionally as Kosa silk, is a variety of natural silk produced by silkworms of the Antheraea genus. In India, tropical Tussar is primarily associated with Antheraea mylitta, a silkworm traditionally reared outdoors on forest trees such as Arjun and Asan.

Unlike the more familiar cultivated mulberry silk, Tussar has a naturally textured appearance, often with warm beige, honey or copper-toned hues before dyeing.

Its appeal lies as much in its unevenness as in its beauty.

What makes Tussar silk different?

Run your fingers across Tussar and you may notice a subtle grain. Look closely and the yarn can reveal small variations in thickness, creating a surface that feels alive rather than mechanically uniform.

Three qualities define its character:

Texture. Tussar generally has a more pronounced grain than smooth mulberry silk. The texture varies with the yarn, weave and finishing.

Lustre. Rather than a high, glossy shine, Tussar often carries a softer, more diffused glow.

Drape. Many Tussar sarees have a pleasing sense of structure. They hold their shape while allowing the cloth to fall naturally around the body.

No two constructions feel exactly alike. A finely woven Tussar saree may be quite different from one made with thicker, more irregular yarn.

Where does Tussar silk come from?

Tussar has deep connections with the forest landscapes and silk-producing communities of eastern and central India, particularly Jharkhand, Chhattisgarh, Odisha and adjoining regions.

But the place where silk is produced and the place where it is woven are not necessarily the same.

Tussar yarn travels into different weaving traditions, including those of West Bengal, where its natural texture becomes the foundation for a wide range of sarees.

In Bankura, for example, Tussar can be combined with Jamdani weaving, where additional weft threads create motifs directly within the cloth.

The material and the technique each contribute something different to the finished saree.

Tussar silk and mulberry silk: what is the difference?

Both are genuine silks, but their character is distinct.

Mulberry silk is generally finer, smoother and more uniform. Tussar often has a drier hand-feel, a more visible grain and a quieter lustre.

One is not inherently better than the other.

They simply offer different ways of experiencing silk.

It is also worth remembering that Tussar describes a silk fibre, not a weaving method. A Tussar saree is not automatically handwoven. Its composition, weaving technique and place of making should be understood separately.

Tussar in the Aayta collection

At Aayta, we are drawn to textiles whose making remains visible in the finished cloth.

Tussar's natural grain offers a beautiful starting point for this exploration.

In our collection, Mou Chak, a Tussar Jamdani saree from Bankura in West Bengal, brings together a textured silk ground and geometric Jamdani detailing woven on a traditional pit loom.

It is an example of how a familiar material can take on an entirely different character in the hands of a weaving community.

The interest is not only in the silk itself, but in what the maker chooses to do with it.

How should you care for a Tussar silk saree?

A thoughtfully cared-for Tussar saree can remain part of a wardrobe for years.

Follow the care instructions provided with your particular saree. Many Tussar silk pieces, including those with elaborate woven or dyed detailing, are best professionally dry-cleaned.

Store the saree folded in breathable cotton or muslin, away from prolonged direct sunlight and moisture. Refold occasionally to avoid leaving the same crease in place for extended periods.

The intention is simple: care for the cloth in a way that respects its material and making.

A few questions about Tussar silk

Is Tussar silk real silk?

Yes. Tussar is a natural silk produced by silkworms. However, fabrics sold as Tussar may contain other fibres, so check the composition of the individual saree.

Is every Tussar saree handwoven?

No. Tussar refers to the silk fibre, while handloom refers to the method of weaving. A saree should be described as handwoven only when its production method is verified.

Why does Tussar silk have an uneven texture?

Variations in the yarn and its construction can create the grain and small irregularities associated with Tussar. These are often part of its natural character, although texture alone is not proof of authenticity.

There is a quiet beauty in cloth that does not try to conceal how it was made.

Tussar reminds us that texture can be as expressive as colour, and that the smallest variations are sometimes what make a textile worth keeping.

Aayta. Made to be kept.